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If you consider that Italy has only about sixty million inhabitants,
a quarter of the population of the United States, it seems odd there
would be that many cities worth visiting. Sadly, though, that is the
case, and even to get a cursory glance at the most important cities,
you'll have to travel to lots of different places.
One thing helps you: every city except for Rome had one particular
moment in time when it flourished and then faded, freezing the city
mostly in a particular architectural stage. You can safely skip
certain cities, say, if you are not interested in medieval architecture
(but then, why would you not?).
Let's categorize Italy's cities by their offering.
- Ancient History
- That's maybe the most important category
for the sight-seer. In this case, most of the action is South of the
Appennines. Tuscany offers the Etruscan cities, with wonderful tombs
that are rich in decoration. Lazio has Rome, of course, a gem if
you've ever seen one. Here the antiquities are for everyone to
touch: I'll never forget how we used to make out in the baths
in front of the Colosseum, with the ribs of the building creating
cozy spaces into which only one car would fit, tight enough to ensure nobody
would be able to open the doors. Further South, there are the Greek cities
of Calabria and Sicily. Agrigento and its Valley of Temples is stunning,
particularly in the late winter when the almond trees bloom. Sardinia
has its own pre-historic culture that built houses and forts of stone.
The complex at Barumini will haunt you, especially when you compare it
to the dwellings of the Pueblo Indians.
- The Middle Ages
- Sadly, Italy is full with the remnants
of medieval times. You'll run into a church built in the XII
century anywhere, and it is quite saddening to see all this history
wasted in one place... Let's see the castles of Trentino and Aosta,
perched up on the Alpine foothills, cannons feeding greedy lords.
Don't miss the stunning beauty Ravenna, with its wonderful churches
encrusted with mosaics that I am sure you have already seen in some book
or movie. Take your time to see medieval Florence, and Pisa. Yes, you
may not know, but the famous Leaning Tower was built in the XIII
century, almost eight-hundred years ago. Go to Perugia and Assisi,
don't miss the castle of Frederic II in Apulia, stop in Amalfi, check
the cathedral in Palermo. Too much to see, I told you!
- Renaissance
- Odd we would use a French word to name a
phenomenon that is essentially of Italian origin. Rinascimento,
re-birth, is the elation that came to the people of Italy after
the Dark Ages ended. This is when the arts and the crafts flourished,
when the merchants of Venice and Florence created the banking system
and made themselves the richest men and women in Europe and thus in the
world. The word 'bank' itself comes from Italian banco,
bench or bar, where the Medici would do business. You hear,
go to Florence for the Renaissance. Follow Michelangelo (late in the
age), Raffael and the others to Rome, where you'll find more sculpture
and painting than Renaissance architecture. And follow up with a visit
to Venice and the Venetian hinterland, where the bloom was later,
but the peculiar conservatism of the powerful aristocracy forced
conformation with earlier styles.
- Baroque
- A time of deep depression for most of Italy, the
Baroque era left its marks mainly in Rome and Naples. Rome is covered
with churches with Baroque facades, Il Gesu' and of course
the great Basilica of St. Peter being the finest examples. If you
love the riches of Baroque art, stop at the many places that have
Caravaggio paintings on display.
- Modern Ages
- Here it starts getting ugly. Italy got into a deep
slump after the XVII century, and not until the nation was united in a
struggle against the French and the Austrians would the situation improve.
The French and the Austrians, ever since Napoleon, were caught in their
own struggles, so that it was just for the Kings of Sardinia (who actually
resided in Turin, which is not at all in Sardinia) to conquer the
recalcitrant country, oust the ever since sulking Pope and build
ugly many-storied buildings all over the country. At least industry
started picking up and the Nation got its much needed infrastructure.
- Contemporary Art
- Since the turn of the XIX century, Italy
dramatically changed again. Milan started becoming a hot-spot of the
arts, where everything was going on, especially music. It is at the
Scala that Verdi would show off his latest tunes, and it is here
that fashion was made an industry. In the XX century, Milan kept its
primate. Rome caught up partially with the advent of Fascism, but
this proved to be a very short-lived intermezzo. For some outlandish
Fascist architecture, visit EUR, the town built by Mussolini for the
Expo.
Next: And if you don't care for art?
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